Polystyrene foam is actually type of plastic produced from styrene. This is a lightweight, moisture-resistant material with exceptional insulation attributes. Since it is composed of more than 90 % air, this foam is also remarkably buoyant. It really is this characteristic that prompted the U. H. Coast Guard and the U. S. Navy blue to use polystyrene foam to make life rafts as well as preservers since World War II. Consumers are quite acquainted with this material too, although it is commonly wrongly diagnosed for something else entirely.

Styrofoam™ may be the trademarked name for extruded polystyrene foam, a device of the Dow Chemical Company that has been within production for more than 50 years. Nearly those who have purchased coffee “to go” has heard the textbox being referred to as a Styrofoam™ cup. Still this material has never been used to make throw away coffee cups. For that matter, it’s never already been used to make portable picnic coolers either, another misunderstanding. These products are actually made from expanded polystyrene froth (EPS) in the form of beads, typically referred to as packaging “peanuts. ”

Unlike throw away cups and picnic coolers, which are notably white within color, products made from polystyrene foam are typically glowing blue. It is used to make insulation wrap for home homes, commercial buildings, and plumbing systems. Additionally it is used in road construction as an insulation coating under pavement to deter the formation of cracks and road imperfections that occur from seasonal freezing and thawing of the ground beneath.

Polystyrene foam is also converted to materials used in craft projects. Actually florists are familiar with the distinctive crackling audio made when cutting Styrofoam™ or inserting floral stems in it. It is also used to fashion architectural versions and as backing for framed photographs and prints. Whilst other forms of polystyrene foam are blue in colour, the foam made for craft purposes is either eco-friendly or white.

In terms of environmental effect and hazards to human health, polystyrene foam manufacturing is considered by the U. S. Epa as the fifth major producer of hazardous waste materials. Aside from posing an occupational health risk because of exposure to styrene during processing, there are issues over polystyrene foam production contributing to poor quality of air. This is due to hydrocarbons escaping during production and reacting with nitrogen oxides in the air, that forms a pollutant referred to as tropospheric ozone.

In addition , numerous recycling companies will not accept products made from polystyrene froth left on the curb, presumably because the market with regard to reclaiming this material is limited. For these along with other reasons, polystyrene foam is banned in some areas, such as Portland, Oregon, and Orange Region in California.

Leave A Comment, Written on May 19th, 2012 , plastic machine Tags:

Exactly what Polystyrene Foam?
Polystyrene is really a “polymer of styrene. ” Polymers are large substances consisting of adjoined identical molecules, and styrene is really a colorless, oily liquid. When polystyrene is created, its structure is that of a rigid clear thermoplastic, resembling a stiff white foam. It really is one of the most common types of plastic material, and it can be found in the house, in the office, at industrial websites, and just about any other place you would discover plastics. Businesses rely on polystyrene for several uses, including manufacturing, product packaging, and construction.

Plastic forks, DIGITAL VIDEO DISC cases, the outside housing of computers, model vehicles, toys, rulers, and hair combs are made from hard polystyrene. It is found regularly in the food industry and used as a disposable transport system to keep hot and cold foods at desired temps. Disposable and reusable items can be produced from polystyrene as it is cheap but long lasting.

The packaging industry is also a enthusiast of polystyrene. Foam peanuts and other polystyrene packaging components keep delicate items safely ensconced in boxes, and extended polystyrene (EPS) is a popular item for both individuals as well as businesses. Electronics, glassware, and chemicals are kept safe with EPS. Foam peanuts could be poured loosely into boxes to house any form of item, or EPS can be easily formed through manufactures to fit products exactly and provide the safest feasible packaging.

Polystyrene is also found in home business. Polystyrene block is used as an high efficiency means for constructing both homes and companies. Polystyrene block form construction is touted as providing houses with even temperatures and fewer drafts. This kind of construction also reduces noise, cooling and heating bills, and general maintenance. Durability as well as strength is also offered by this type of block contact form construction. The polystyrene is used in conjunction with strengthened concrete and is therefore a winner in the battle towards weather calamities.

Whatever the business, polystyrene is likely to show up in a minimum of some capacity. It’s durability, range of firmness and flexibility, as well as it’s low cost allow it to be a popular material for a number of tasks. As an insulator, protector, and product having the ability to conform to any shape, it is difficult to beat as a universal manufacturing materials, and it will likely be found in a complete range of industries for years to come.

Leave A Comment, Written on May 19th, 2012 , plastic machine Tags:

Polystyrene is really a petroleum byproduct that is used to make products which range from food storage containers to household goods. Polystyrene prevents and packing peanuts also serve as probably the most popular materials for shipping and product packaging. Though manufacturers continue to use these products in big amounts, many people are concerned about exactly how polystyrene disposal may impact the environment. Concerns over air pollution and disposal have led some companies to develop polystyrene recycling where possible techniques, including crushing, dissolving, or reusing this fabric to make new products.

Probably the most basic methods of styrofoam recycling involves reduction this material down in a specialty oven. These recycling where possible ovens are designed to meet the demands of polystyrene recycling where possible, and can shrink this material to just a small fraction of its size by removing excess air. The cake you produced by-product largely consists of petroleum, and is sold to refineries for use in diesel energy. Others use chemicals or organic compounds, together with a citrus oil known as limonene, to break down thepolystyrene without the use of these stoves.

Polystyrene foam products, including insulation as well as packing materials, can be recycled to form new creating materials. Manufacturers shred on grind thepolystyrene into small items, then add it to concrete mixtures to enhance the actual insulating properties of the concrete. Polystyrene recycling could also include turning this foam into loose fill insulation with regard to homes and buildings. Some manufacturers even press the reduce foam pieces into sheets of foam building padding. Recycledpolystyrene foam also serves as an important component within structural insulated panels.

Another type of eps recycle involves melting these procompactor
ducts as well as pouring them into molds to form new products. Like some manufacturers produce benches, picture structures, and household goods using petroleum-derivedthermoplastic materials. By reduction existing polystyrene products instead, manufacturers can avoid looking for raw materials. This type of recycling process can also be used to produce molds for casting metal or other styles of plastic.

Consumers have many a number of options when it comes to choosing a polystyrenerecycling technique. Some retailers collect used polystyrene products for in-house recycling where possible, or for use in making new products. Numerous communities also provide curbside pickup of these material, or even accept these products for dropoff at localrecycling centers. Sending and shipping companies may take packing materials and reuse these to package future products. Some polystyrene industry associations additionally accept these products by mail, and then request recycling or reuse.
Foam densifier.

You can make this reusable coffee cup sleeve by following a few basic steps. The idea behind a cup sleeve is to not only keep the beverage warm but also to protect your hands from the heat. Using the recommended adhesive, you can wash the sleeve and toss it into the dryer.

1

Use the ruler to measure the height of the cup. Subtract 1 3/4 inches from the measurement and make a note of the final number. This will be the height of the sleeve, which should sit at least 1 inch from the top rim of the cup and 3/4 of an inch up from the bottom edge of the cup.

2
Spread the felt onto a flat surface. Place the ruler onto the fabric and use the marker to make the measurement for the sleeve height. Cut the fabric with the scissors.

3

Wrap the fabric around the cup. Hold the fabric in place with one hand and use the marker to mark the fabric so it overlaps itself by 1/4 inch. (You’ll notice the fabric is loose on the bottom so wrap the fabric until it becomes secure at the top and bottom. It will be irregular in shape at this point but that will be taken care of later.) Mark the fabric where it overlaps at the 1/4-inch mark. Cut the fabric.

4

Wrap the cut fabric around the cup and secure the edges using the glue by spreading a thin line of glue along the inside edge of the felt where it overlaps. Press the glued pieces together while on the cup so it is secure. Let it set for a minute or two.

5

Slide the sleeve from the cup. Flatten the sleeve so the edges meet. Using the scissors trim the felt where it is uneven. The fabric can be washed after a 24-hour period.

 

 

 

  • 1

    Look on the back of your commercial coffee sleeve to find the seam. Run a pencil along the seam to mark where the end of the cardboard is joined. Carefully undo the glue at the ends of the sleeve to open it up into one flat shape. Cut along the line that you marked at the back of the sleeve.

  • 2

    Place your fabric on the table in front of you with the wrong side, or the less colorful side, facing up. Place the opened coffee sleeve right-side-up on top of the fabric, making sure that there is at least 1/2 inch of fabric showing all around from under the sleeve.

  • 3

    Rubber band two regular pencils together. This will create two lines, each one exactly 1/4 inch from the other.

  • 4

    Trace around the outside of the coffee sleeve with one pencil, making sure that the other pencil is making a line 1/4 inch farther away. Trace around the entire sleeve.

  • 5

    Remove the coffee cup sleeve. Trace around the outer line, creating a third line that is another 1/4 inch away. You now have the outline drawn on the fabric with two more sets of lines, each one 1/4 inch farther away.

  • 6

    Cut the fabric. Use the outermost line that you drew.

  • 7

    Fold down the outside of this cut-out shape along the second line that you drew, which is 1/4 inch inside the cut line. Pin this folded edge down all around the fabric shape, and stitch it closed. Sew along the fold line, keeping close to the edge.

  • 8

    Fold the fabric down along the third line at the top and bottom of the fabric. Pin these edges and stitch them down, sewing directly on top of the first stitching line. You now have the top and bottom of your cup sleeve hemmed.

  • 9

    Fold the fabric in half with the right sides together. Fold it so that the two short ends are touching. Pin these ends together and sew them, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Turn the sleeve right side out and slip it onto your hot cup of coffee.

Leave A Comment, Written on February 18th, 2012 , Paper Product Making Tags:

 paper cup is a cup made out of paper and often lined with plastic or wax to prevent liquid from leaking out or soaking through the paper. It may be made of recycled paper[4] and is widely used around the world.

Printing
Paper arrives in a cup factory on large rolls. One side of the paper roll is covered with a plastic or wax backing that will eventually become the inside of the cups. These paper rolls are fed into a large machine that prints selected designs on the non-coated side of the paper. After the paper has been printed, the machine cuts apart the designs on the paper to make small sheets known as “flats.” Each flat will become a cup. Flats vary in size, depending on the size of the cups being made.

Use printed paper cups to promote your organization or create a unified look for an event. It is not possible to print paper cups at home, because a standard printer cannot print on an object like a paper cup; however, a number of online stores allow you to order and print paper cups with your organization’s logo or information about your event. Stores that sell printed paper cups usually offer two types of printing, neither of which can be performed without specialized equipment. With screen-printing, sometimes called silkscreen printing, ink passes through a stencil made from fabric. In offset printing, a plate is created for each color in an image, and the plates roll over the ink and then the item being printed. Offset printing is more expensive than screen-printing, but it offers higher quality.

Forming
After the flats have been stacked, they are fed into one end of a large machine. This machine rolls the flats into a cylinder and seals them by heating up the wax coating on the inside of the paper cups. At the same time, a roll of paper is fed into the other end of the same machine and circles are cut out of the paper to form the bottoms of the cups. The strip of paper left over after the cup bottoms have been cut is sent out for recycling. The machine brings the cup bottoms and cylinders together and heat-seals them to each other.

Rimming and Packaging
The cups are sent through a chute to another machine that rolls the paper at the top of the cups. This creates a rim on each cup. The cups are then sent through a vacuum tube to the packaging department, where they’re dropped into tubes that stack them. Once the desired number of cups is in a stack, the stack is sent through a machine that wraps plastic around it and then seals the plastic. The package of cups is then ready to be packed and shipped. The entire process of making and packaging cups takes about one minute.

Testing
Leaks are very rare. However, cups are randomly pulled off of the production line and checked. The cups that are pulled for testing are set into a special holder above a mirror. The mirror allows the person performing the test to see the bottoms of the cups and make sure they’re not leaking. If a leak is found, production on a particular line is stopped until the problem can be found and corrected.

Leave A Comment, Written on February 15th, 2012 , Paper Product Making Tags:

When you are working with metal, having a good forming tool is invaluable. What is even better is having a selection of forming tools for different tasks, from roughing shapes to forming flanges. No metal shop would be complete without them. Read on to learn more about how to use a forming tool.

  • Use a blocking hammer to create rough, high-domed shapes in steel and aluminum. Blocking hammers that are highly polished help to minimize marks on the metal being shaped.

  • 2

    Create flanges (a protruding edge) with a straight “T” dollie. Hammer the metal over the edge of the dolly to bend it into a flange.

  • 3

    Form a curved edge on a sheet metal project by using a curved “T” dollie. These tools are handy when creating items with compound curves such as fenders and hood scoops.

  • 4

    Create a smooth finish by using a bossing hammer. As Fornier Enterprises claims, a bossing hammer is handy when making “trick” parts on hot rods.

  • 5

    Form bends and notches in metal by using a sheet metal hand former. After inserting the metal into the machine’s jaws, activate the machine by stepping on a lever.

For the strongest bond, stainless steel needs to be welded. But if properly prepared, silver solder will adhere to stainless steel, and you can solder copper, brass or more stainless steel onto it. The connection will only be as strong as the silver solder itself, and never as strong as the stainless steel. But if your application does not demand the strength of steel, roll up your sleeves and go for it

Cleanliness

  • Clean all surfaces to be soldered with solvent and a wire brush to remove all grease, corrosion or dirt.

  • Use solvent and a wire brush or emery paper to clean the surfaces of both materials to be soldered. Solder adheres best to clean, shiny bare metal. But any foreign agent, even ink or pencil marks where you made your measurements, can destroy your solder connection.

Flux and Solder

  • Apply a coating of flux to the stainless steel parts you are connecting. If you are soldering brass or copper parts to the stainless steel, tin them first by heating them and applying a thin coat of solder to the area that connects to the stainless steel.

  • Hold your parts together with wire or clamps. Make sure the surfaces fit flush. Silver solder will not fill gaps.

    The acid breaks down the stainless steel finish to a point where the solder will adhere. The silver content of the solder determines the strength and the melting point, as both increase with silver content. For example, 95 percent tin and 5 percent silver melts at around 400 degrees. Solder with 20 to 40 percent silver melts at roughly 700 degrees. Select a solder strong enough for your application.

Proper Temperature

  • The size of the area where you want to melt solder, along with the type of solder you use determine the amount of heat you need to melt the solder. Butane or propane heat most silver solders to the melting point, but if you have a large area, MAPP gas burns the hottest. Heat the area slowly to give the flux a chance to operate, and then heat your connection. When the parts get hot enough, the solder will melt instantly when you touch it to the joint and flow into place, but be careful not to overheat the stainless steel. It could oxidize and ruin its stainless qualities.

Precautions

  • Let the hot metal melt the solder. Never try to melt the solder with the torch. Always work in a well-ventilated area. The fumes from the hot acid flux are toxic. Also, never solder stainless steel for an electrical or electronic connection. The acid in the flux will break down an electric connection over time. Drill a hole and use a nut and bolt or screw or a rivet to make an electrical connection to stainless steel.

  • Allow the metal to cool before touching or cleaning it. You can dunk it in water to cool it faster.
Leave A Comment, Written on February 5th, 2012 , Joining processes Tags:

Heating Tools

Electric tools include a soldering iron or soldering gun. In situations where electricity is not available, a propane or butane torch equipped with a soldering tip can be used. A small battery-operated soldering iron is also an option.
Solder

The choice of filler material, or solder, is based on the metals to be joined. A combination of lead and tin is the most common.

Common solder alloys are mixtures of tin and lead, respectively:

  • 63/37: melts at 183 °C (361 °F) (eutectic: the only mixture that melts at a point, instead of over a range)
  • 60/40: melts between 183–190 °C (361–374 °F)
  • 50/50: melts between 185–215 °C (365–419 °F)

Flux

The purpose of flux is to facilitate the soldering process. Acid flux is used mostly in commercial shops as it is a bit dangerous to work with and remove. Rosin flux also needs to be removed after soldering, or it will leave gluey mess. Some of the cleaning solutions can be harmful if not used properly.

Fluxes for soft solder are currently available in three basic formulations:

  1. Water-soluble fluxes (no VOCs required for removal) are higher activity fluxes designed to be removed with water after soldering.
  2. No-clean fluxes which are mild enough to not “require” removal due to the non-conductive and non-corrosive residue. Performance of the flux needs to be carefully evaluated; a very mild ‘no-clean’ flux might be perfectly acceptable for production equipment, but not give adequate performance for a poorly controlled hand-soldering operation. They are so-called “no-clean” because the residue left after the solder operation is non-conductive and won’t cause electrical shorts; nevertheless these fluxes leave a white-color residue like dilute bird-droppings. which is plainly visible. Since the presence of foreign matter, detritus, even lint, on circuit boards is a defect for all three classes of electronic circuit boards (ranging from cheap consumer electronics to high-reliability, mission critical applications), these sorts of fluxes must still be cleaned as with all hand solder work, typically brushing with 99% isopropyl alcohol as the solvent and lint-free non-synthetic (eg cotton) wipes.
  3. Traditional rosin fluxes are available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned off the piece being soldered. RMA flux is formulated to result in a residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but optional.

Organic water soluble flux has recently become available to the general public. They are easy to use and can be cleaned up with only water. Flux can be included in the solder, or applied separately. Tubes of solder with flux inserted into the hollow inner core are sold as “rosin core solder,” “acid core solder,” or “organic flux core solder.”

Leave A Comment, Written on February 3rd, 2012 , Joining processes Tags:

A roll bender is a mechanical jig having three rollers used to form a metal bar into a circular arc. The rollers freely rotate about three parallel axes, which are arranged with uniform horizontal spacing. The two outer rollers have the same fixed vertical height and make contact with the underside of the bar to be formed. The middle roller has an adjustable height and makes contact with the topside of the bar.

The bottom of the steel rests on top of the stationary wheels. The center wheel is lowered down to put pressure on the top of the steel. A crank is then manually turned to move the steel back and forth. The more pressure applied from the center wheel, the greater the curve.

 

Leave A Comment, Written on February 1st, 2012 , Cutting processes, metal forming Tags:

Roll forming:sheet metal is malleable and easily forms into different shapes after being pressed through dies. This process is commonly called roll forming .

If you want to build your own metal panels and parts from sheet metal, you need to learn roll forming, so you can press flat sheets of metal into almost any part. This project requires advanced machinery skills, so experience working with machines is a prerequisite.

  • Precaution:Don a pair of gloves and goggles first.
  • Dies: Set up the dies on the forming machine to conform to the shape you desire. To build corrugated roofing panels, for instance, set round roll dies equal distances apart on the machine. Each die will place a similar bend along the length of the panel to form the corrugation pattern.

Insert the sheet metal into the forming machine and feed it down the line. Allow the sheet metal to pass all the way through the machine and under each die. Do not interfere with the sheet metal as it moves through the machine and never place your hand near the die.
Send the sheet metal back through the machine to complete your bend if the first pass did not completely bend the metal to your needs.

Sheet metal will produce spring back after it goes through the die. This is when the metal bends back after being bent by the die. Always account for this spring back when setting your die by over-bending the metal, so it springs back to the shape you desire.

Adjust the die settings by raising or lowering the dies as needed to achieve the proper bend after the first pass. Repeat the shaping process as needed for your project.

Inspect the finished rolled edge to ensure that the clearances are correct. If you notice that the seam is malformed or jammed tight, adjust the rolls according to the operating manual and run another piece of sheet metal through the roll-forming machine.

Leave A Comment, Written on January 31st, 2012 , Cutting processes, metal forming, Roll forming Tags:
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